If you’ve ever found yourself frowning while reading the label on one of your skincare must-haves or found yourself wondering, “hydro-what?” while a friend casually weaves “Hydroquinone” into conversation (in between sips of their decaf skinny latte with almond milk), then this article is for you. We’re breaking down our top five ingredients at the moment – from what they are, to what they do – no frowning (or distinction in Science) required.
As always, knowledge is power, which is why it’s important to know what your skin needs at every age and stage and which ingredients pack a real punch in the benefits department. From Niacinamide and Hydroquinone to Retinol, Vitamin C, and Glycolic Acid, we have no doubt that you’re a quick study, so five words: class is now in session.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a therapeutic, protective, and hydrating ingredient available in serums, creams, masks, and other products. Regular use of this multi-tasking ingredient reduces the impact of environmental damage, tightens skin, visibly minimises enlarged pores, fights premature signs of ageing, and improves skin tone. It’s also worth considering if you’re struggling with or managing acne, as this ingredient – safe to use every single day, twice a day – visibly improves discolouration, brightens the complexion, and reveals clearer-looking skin.
DO use it regularly, look for a high concentration (at least 2%), and combine it with other ingredients such as antioxidants, retinoids, and hyaluronic acid.
DON’T use it with exfoliating ingredients, vitamin C, or if you have an allergy. Like any other skincare ingredient, niacinamide can cause allergic reactions in some people. Patch test the product before using it on your face if you have sensitive skin or a history of allergies.
Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is applied to the skin to lighten areas that have darkened due to hyperpigmentation, melasma, liver spots, and age spots caused by pregnancy, birth control pills, hormone medicine, or injury to the skin. It works by blocking the process that leads to discolouration in the skin.
DO consult your Skin Renewal doctor first, and wear (and reapply) sunscreen daily if you get the green light for short-term use (6 weeks – 6 months). Introduce this product slowly to your skin.
DON’T over-use it (beyond the prescription period) or use it while pregnant or breastfeeding, and don’t mix it with Benzoyl Peroxide, hydrogen peroxide, other peroxide products, and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic, lactic and citric acids.
Retinol
A form of Vitamin A, Retinol is an ingredient with a long list of benefits for your skin, from reducing hyperpigmentation, age spots, and sun spots to reducing fine lines and wrinkles, minimising acne breakouts, and balancing your skin condition and complexion overall.
Products containing retinol (most commonly serums and creams) are widely available “over-the-counter”, but you’ll need a prescription for stronger concentrations of retinoids. Most people can use a skincare product containing Retinol every day, but the kind of product and percentage of Retinol will depend on how sensitive your skin is.
DO start slowly, follow up your retinol with hyaluronic acid to counteract its drying effects, wait 20 to 30 minutes after applying retinol before using other products, and apply (and re-apply) a broad-spectrum sunscreen throughout the day.
DON’T use retinol at the same time as other potent actives, such as vitamin C or benzoyl peroxide, and don’t apply retinol in large quantities (a pea-sized amount is sufficient). Steer clear of this ingredient if you have very sensitive, red, rosacea-prone skin or are suffering from eczema or psoriasis.
Vitamin C
There’s a good reason so many people across the world start their day with a glass of orange juice. Apart from several health benefits, Vitamin C—a powerful antioxidant—is super beneficial for the skin, too, fading blemishes, correcting skin texture, and brightening the complexion.
DO store in a cool, dark place, like your fridge, to preserve shelf life and avoid oxidisation; do a test on a small area of the face 2 to 3 times before applying to the entire face—daily in the morning (followed by an SPF).
DON’T apply with Retinol or multiple other serums at the same time (to avoid irritation). Also, keep in mind the thinnest-to-thickest rule: apply your “waterier” Vit C serum before heavier products like moisturisers.
Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is a popular alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It is known for its ability to exfoliate and rejuvenate the skin, penetrating deeply and effectively. This ingredient works by removing the top layers of dead skin cells, which also helps to reverse the signs of sun damage. It’s a must-have for those tackling acne, ageing skin, discolouration/dark skin patches on the face, and acne scars.
DO start with a low concentration (5% to 10%), use within your nighttime skincare routine, pair with products containing Vitamin C (brightness) and Hyaluronic Acid (hydration), and follow up with a moisturiser to prevent dryness.
DON’T overdo it and avoid using it during the day, as this ingredient increases your skin’s sensitivity to the sun. While it’s beneficial to the skin, overuse can lead to irritation, redness, and peeling, which is why you want to use it just once or twice a week to avoid over-exfoliation.
What To Add to Your Cart, Today
Lamelle Pigment Repair Balm is a non-prescription alternative that mimics the effects of hydroquinone, retinoic acid, and glucocorticoids. It ensures effective pigment production inhibition, cellular turnover, and inflammation reduction. Perfect for enhancing post-treatment results, this balm is your go-to solution for managing hyperpigmentation and supporting skin recovery.
NeoStrata Enlighten Illuminating Serum is a powerful brightening serum that exfoliates pigmented, sun-damaged skin. This cocktail of highly active brighteners – including NeoGlucosamine™ and peptides – will decrease the formation of pigmentation and reduce the appearance of dark spots, increasing your skin's cell turnover and exfoliating dead cells for smooth and radiant skin.
Endocare C Pure Concentrate is an intensive Vitamin C treatment meticulously designed to counteract the visible signs of ageing while bringing out your skin's natural radiance. Oil-free and swiftly absorbed into the skin, this innovative formula—containing a high concentration of pure Vitamin C—is perfect for daily use. It provides a potent antioxidant effect that combats free radical damage and brightens your complexion, too.
NeoRetin Serum Booster Fluid is an innovative night serum (containing Kojic Acid and Retinol Glycospheres) that supports epidermal exfoliation and renewal. Its combination of potent anti-ageing and anti-pigmentation technologies makes it excellent for use in tandem with skin-lightening procedures. This serum intervenes in all phases of melanin production and synthesis, ensuring high-quality pigment control and reducing surface pigmentation, while Retinsphere technology delivers Retinol with less irritation.
SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.5 is a night-time active with a high concentration of 0.5% pure Retinol. It is suitable for blemishes from problematic skin types as well as fine lines, pigmentation, and acne. Its stabilising ingredients ensure a safe and deep delivery that does not sensitise the skin, and its advanced delivery technologies ensure maximum results. It also contains Bisabolol, an ingredient to calm irritation that can accompany Retinol.
What To Add To Your Calendar, This Month
The quicker you start treating that pigmentation that’s started living its best life while you were living yours, the better. And, when it comes to a treatment that gets results, MesoBrite™ is the go-to of many who struggle with sun damage, dark marks and hyper-pigmentation – even after being super well-behaved on the sunscreen, hat and “stay out of the sun between 10am and 2pm” fronts.
A 3-phase medical depigmenting treatment that efficiently and progressively eliminates stubborn pigmentation spots and patches, MesoBrite™ targets the accumulation of pigment (melanin) in the skin and addresses the root of the problem, too – pigmentation production within the skin. It really is the complete solution to targeting hyperpigmentation, including sun-induced pigmentation and melasma.